Christmas Cookies
Friday, 16 December 2011

In the midst of baking cookies for the holidays, I might not look like the happiest guy around; you’re more likely to hear me grumbling about lack of space, missing equipment or inferior ingredients than singing Christmas carols. But underneath all the bluster, I am filled with joy.

Even as I complain about the very real inadequacies of my home oven, I am completely content pulling out tray after tray of reasonably well-baked Smoked Salt And Walnut Macaroons, or Lime and Pecan Shortbread Snowballs. I might mutter a quiet curse under my breath when some of the powdered sugar tumbles out of the bag and onto the floor, but I am enjoying myself anyway.


 

And in spite of what you might think when you watch me preparing chocolate truffles, I actually love doing this. When I focus intently on the chocolate ganache, testing the temperature with the tip of my finger and stirring like I’m in some sort of race to the finish on reality TV, I’m not as angry or as stressed out as I look. I’m not frowning; I’m concentrating. This is my way of having fun.

I really do love the process of making cookies and candies to give away or serve to friends and family during the holidays. I especially love the end results, when a variety of not-entirely-perfect but nevertheless intriguing treats is presented in a tin or on a platter for someone to enjoy.

This year, with the launch of a new cookbook and a new restaurant occurring immediately before and after the holidays respectively, I have been baking up a storm. Somehow the repetitive motions and the exacting nature of measuring, rolling and timing soothes me, reassures me that at least some things – eggs, butter, flour, nuts and sugar – can be managed. Transformation, even alchemy occurs when these simple ingredients are brought together and subjected to heat. The whole process gives me comfort, joy and hope that we too might somehow be made better by coming together and sharing these simple delights.

The key to a good variety of cookies is including something for everyone. Make some items without flour, prepare a few cookies without nuts – gotta watch out for those allergies – and if you want to replace organic shortening for butter in a simple shortbread, you might even have something for the vegans in your tribe. Here are some of my favorites:

Smoked Salt And Walnut Macaroons 
Lime and Pecan Shortbread Snowballs
Chocolate Truffles with Cocoa Nibs
Fauxreos