Pork Roast with Prunes

Monday, 16 February 2009

What makes a dish a classic? It could be tradition, or a natural affinity between the basic ingredients; maybe it’s a combination of those things. When a pork loin is filled with dried fruit and roasted in the oven, it just feels right, especially when winter has gone on a little too long. In this version, a “gastrique” or sweet-sour sauce built on the pan drippings, enhances the seasonal goodness of the dish. For the best results, look for pastured pork from local farms at Seattle Neighborhood Farmer’s Markets. (Serves 6) For the Pork: 1 pound pitted prunes 2 cups water 3 pound boneless pork loin roast 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons pork fat or olive oil 1 medium-sized yellow onion, peeled and sliced 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg For the “Gastrique:” 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar reserved soaking liquid from the prunes 1.) Put the prunes and water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, uncovered until the prunes are softened and most of the water is absorbed. Take off the heat and let the prunes cool to room temperature. 2.) Preheat the oven to 400. Butterfly the pork loin by cutting horizontally along one side of the roast as if you were cutting it in half, but stop about an inch before you reach the opposite side, then fold the roast open like a book. Sprinkle the pork inside and out with salt and pepper. 3.) With a slotted spoon, lift the prunes out of their soaking liquid and save the liquid. Arrange the prunes on the cut side of the pork and roll the roast to enclose the prunes, then tie the roast securely in five places with kitchen twine (easier than it sounds). 4.) Warm the pork fat or olive oil in an ovenproof pan with a lid (a covered cast iron skillet or an enameled Dutch oven works well) and sear the rolled roast in the oil, turning once or twice for about 20 minutes, or until it is browned all around. Lift the roast out of the pan and sauté the sliced onion in the pan drippings. Stir in the thyme and nutmeg and put the roast back in the pan. Cover and roast until the pork is tender and cooked through, about 90 minutes. 5.) To make the gastrique, melt the sugar in a dry pan over medium high heat then add the vinegar and stand back to allow the pungent steam to escape. The caramelized sugar will seize at first, then it will gradually dissolve in the boiling vinegar. Stir in the reserved prune-soaking liquid and when the roast is ready, stir this mixture in with the onions and the pan juices to make a sauce. Allow the finished roast to stand for 15 minutes before cutting it into slices and serving it with the sauce.

 

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